Don't Worry, Be Hampi

Hampi was on my wish-list since a long time, long before it managed to grab the 2nd spot on 'The New York Times Must-See Global Destinations of 2019' list. However, I will not deny the fact that the 'NY Times' declaration definitely reminded me that I should check this destination off my list before it gets swarmed by tourists. Thus, one of my friends and I decided to visit this historical marvel over a weekend.

Hampi is a quaint little village on the banks of the Tungabhadra and consists of the ruins of the once-glorious Vijayanagara empire. While we were excited to explore this ancient jewel of India, we were equally excited to include the Hippie Island on our list of to-dos in Hampi. Situated on the other side of the Tungabhadra, lies the Hippie Island, or the Virupapur Gadde, which is the sin city of Hampi, replete with Israeli hippies, quirky decor, and an elemental ambience.

Just a random view of Hampi

Our journey began from Bangalore. We boarded an AC bus to Hospet (since there aren't any direct buses to Hampi) and reached at 6, the next morning.

We checked into a homestay in New Hampi and were pleasantly surprised by the swanky interiors (though decked in tacky colours).

Day 1: Coracle Ride and the Hippie Island

Our first day in Hampi began with a Continental breakfast at the Hampi Paradise Restaurant. Decked with bohemian decor (such as an authentic painting of Kali), this place was no less than an outdoor breakfast place in Bangalore.

Next, we saw the Sister Stones, and the driver explained how folklore claims that two sisters who were cursed by a saint had turned into stones at that point. We were keen on travelling to the other side of the Tungabhadra (to the Hippie Island) via a coracle, but our auto driver/guide gave us another option: A leisurely, customized coracle ride on Sanapur Lake, followed by a road trip to the Hippie Island.

Me, rowing the coracle

The coracle ride was my first, and I must say, I loved it thoroughly. My friend and I even rowed the coracle for a while, and it was quite a thrilling moment for both of us. Following the coracle ride, we treated ourselves to some refreshing coconut water and headed to the Hippie Island.

A painting of Dali at the Hippie Island

The Hippie Island lived up to its reputation. Replete with restaurants serving Israeli food, foreigners in hippie attire and quirky hairdos, eye-catching graffiti, and thatched-roofed houses, the Hippie Island is a treat to the bohemian soul.

Decor at the Hippie Island

My friend and I got colourful braids done at the island (another first for me) and explored the eateries there. We spent some time soaking in the gypsy ambience at Gouthami and savoured some choco-banana cake at the German Bakery (not so extraordinary).

Me, with braids

Our day ended with a quick visit to the Hanuman Temple located nearby, after which we had an early dinner at the renowned Mango Tree, located in the Hampi Bazaar area.

While Mango Tree offered a soothing ambience, the "bazaar" didn't have too many options to explore. The area basically consists of a few curio/handicraft shops and a few eateries.

Mango Tree

After a hectic day at the Hippie Island, we took an auto ride to our homestay. However, the village was then totally submerged in darkness. Our 15-minute ride to our homestay spooked us a bit, as the roads were dark and empty, flanked by trees and the ruins that seemed a wee bit haunted. Fortunately for us, we reached our homestay soon. We were eager to catch the sunrise the next morning.

Day 2: Matanga Hill and the Ruins of Hampi

Our second day in Hampi was quite an eventful one. The day began at 5:30 am, with us rushing to the base of the Matanga Hill. Unfortunately, I had underestimated the climb and was overdressed (in a skirt and a blouse, with a fancy dupatta) for it. After the initial few stretches, I got a panic attack, as the rest of the climb seemed difficult (especially if one is dressed in a skirt). At one point, I decided to give up. We were there to watch the sunrise, so yes, the trek in the dark was difficult, at least for me. However, our guide was determined to show me the sunrise and helped me climb up to a place where I could sit and watch the sunrise, while most of the others who were there climbed up to the highest point (beside the Matanga temple). My friend was able to climb up to the top, while I sat at a lower point, listening to bumble bees buzzing right next to me.

Sunrise at the Matanga Hill

The sunrise, however, was worth the climb. The early morning chills, accompanied by the chirps of birds and the stunning view of the Tungabhadra on one side and the Achutaraya Temple on the other, was a delight.

Shortly after the sunrise, my friend was back from the hilltop, but she wasn't alone. Apparently, she had befriended a solo traveller from Delhi, and he tagged along with us. So now, we were a group of three. Our guide helped us climb down through another route (an easier one, with steps) that took us through the Achutaraya Temple at the base of the Matanga Hill. We explored the temple ruins and the monolithic bull (Nandi) nearby.

The rest of the day was spent exploring some of the awe-inspiring temple ruins of Hampi. We visited the Krishna Temple, the markets of the Vijayanagara era (which reminded me of similar structures at the Lepakshi temple), the Badavi Linga (a partially submerged shivlinga), the Narasimha temple, and the Ganesha temple.

The ancient markets of Hampi

The scorching sun was getting the better of us. Thus, we armed ourselves with caps and a lot of water and juices to help us sail through the day.

Plates meant for the soldiers of that era

After a break, we made way to the Hazara Rama Temple (with beautifully sculpted pillars depicting scenes from the Ramayana). We then headed to the Lotus Mahal (reminiscent of the ancient monuments of Delhi), the awe-inspiring Elephant Stables, and the Queen's Bath. Our guide also took us to a place that had food plates etched in stone, which he claimed were meant for soldiers of that era.

Mahanavami Dibba

We then explored the Mahanavami Dibba, a giant raised platform with a scenic view of the surrounding landscape. One of the highlights of the day was the giant step-well or Pushkarni (which reminded me of the great Adalaj step-well of Gujarat). A few selfies later, we decided (against our overtly enthusiastic guide) to keep our temple exploration pending and head for lunch instead.

Pushkarni

We had a sumptuous lunch, consisting of a concoction of Israeli, Italian, and Continental food, at Funky Monkey in the Hampi Bazaar area. We chatted with another solo traveller there. He was planning to camp at Matanga Hill but was a little apprehensive about it, as a few of his friends had told him the hill was haunted. He also spoke of his interest in bouldering and told us he had plans of exploring Matanga Hill with a Chinese tourist he had met the previous day.

After lunch, we spent some time curio-shopping at Hampi Bazaar. After spending 10 minutes haggling with the vendor, we managed to salvage a few miniature stone chariots at a throwaway price. Our solo traveller friend had to depart, as he had a bus to catch in the evening and had to cover Hippie Island before that.

Next, our dedicated auto driver drove us to the cynosure of the entire region of Hampi: the Vijaya Vittala Temple and the Stone Chariot. As we headed for the ticket counter, we were almost mobbed by a huge group of schoolchildren who had arrived just then and were queuing up just ahead of us. We thought we wouldn't be able to cover the temple, as we had an hour before its scheduled closing time and the queue in front of us was a serpentine, never-ending one. After the initial shock, we realized the children had queued up but would not get in the battery-operated cars, for which we had queued up. They would walk instead. This meant, they were let in through a separate gate and the queue in front of us shortened significantly.

The Stone Chariot

We thanked our stars as we got in the battery-operated car. A 2-minute ride took us to the main temple complex. As we entered the beautiful Vittala temple complex, we realized it was no ordinary temple. By far the most beautiful of all the temples we visited in Hampi, this was an architectural marvel, which makes one question: If the ruins are this breathtaking, how beautiful were these temples back in the time of the mighty Vijayanagara empire, before being burned down and ravaged by the Delhi Sultanate?

The Stone Chariot was definitely the highlight of the entire complex, with people clicking the chariot from a distance, with the 50-Rupee note (bearing an image of the chariot) beside it - a frame that has now become a cliche of sorts.

The Musical Pillars

A few steps ahead lay the mighty Musical Pillars. The main feature of these pillars is that they emanate different sounds of the "sargam"when tapped. Unfortunately, a major portion of this structure is now closed down for maintenance and is thus out of reach of tourists. We were highly disappointed but managed to explore the entire complex and strike some pretty poses inside.

After an hour of clicking photos and exploring the temple, we headed back to the main entrance, queuing up for the battery-operated car again.

The sunset at Hemakuta Hills

Our next spot was the Hemakuta Temple and the sunset point adjacent to it. The monkey families spotted at the main entrance added to the appeal of this place. We did a quick recce of the temple and were rushing to the sunset point when our guide took us to an isolated corner of the temple and amazed us by tapping on a few pillars. What we heard was music. It sounded like the tabla and was soothing to the ears. Our disappointment at not being able to get into the actual structure with the bigger musical pillars at the Vittala Temple was now somewhat gone.

We rushed to the sunset point and realized we had reached at the 11th hour. We caught a glimpse of the setting sun and loved every bit of it.

Our last spot was the Virupaksha Temple. We were thrilled to spot the temple elephant, Lakshmi, who was seen blessing the devotees with her trunk and eating the bananas and other fruits offered to her. Thankfully, she was not in chains.

Lakshmi, the temple elephant, at Virupaksha Temple

Our journey to Hampi was now over and we left the little village that night with somewhat heavy hearts but also with a lot of experiences and memories that would remain with us forever. The journey gave us new friends and gave me a new set of firsts: my first experience of trekking up a hill in a skirt (that too, in utter darkness, just before the sunrise), my first experience of getting coloured hippie braids, and my first coracle ride.

To conclude, I would like to use a phrase used by the solo traveller we met in Hampi, who later turned into a good friend: "Don't Worry, Be Hampi!"

Weekend Trip: Tree House Homestay and Clover Greens Golf Club

I have two major hobbies: travelling and writing about travel. However, of late, I have started enjoying reading about travel, too. A casual search on road trips around Bangalore led me to an LBB post featuring a write-up on a beautiful tree house homestay just off Sarjapur and about a 45-minute drive away from Bangalore, on the outskirts bordering Tamil Nadu. A little more research revealed that the house is actually the property of a local architect who rents it out on Airbnb.

The Tree House Homestay

The link that the site provided, however, showed that the tree house remains booked almost throughout the month. Thus, booking in advance is recommended. 

A travel-loving friend and I decided to explore the tree house and the surrounding area over a weekend. We decided to head for the place on a Friday evening and reached the place at around 10 pm. Although the tree house remains well-lit at night and is inside a gated farm, the road leading to the place was isolated and a bit creepy at night. There is a 2 km stretch that is completely dark and can be scary at night.

The Beautiful Balcony

Me, Posing

However, once we reached the place (which is located next to a village), the friendly caretaker guided us to the tree house. Not much of the property could be explored at night, but we noticed that the place was decked with fairy lights and looked lovely.

The Sofa Bed

Cute Decor

Once inside, we were floored by the strategic use of space inside the tree house. The amenities that we got as part of the package included:

• An AC tree house with a balcony
• A TV attached to a convertible bed
• A well-stocked kitchen, with a microwave oven, an induction cooker, a fridge, utensils, crockery, and cutlery
• A sofa-bed 
• An attached bathroom with a glass (not opaque, not even semi-opaque) door, a cute little bath area, a geyser, and a hair-dryer.
• An emergency light (just in case, the power fails)
• A heater 
• A whole lot of cupboards and storage areas, two wooden chairs, and a coffee table

The TV and Convertible Bed

The Convertible Bed

Glass Doors

The aforementioned list is not meant to be an advertisement for the place but a sheer expression of awe at how well-utilised the space was. The house also had cute decor, and there was not a speck of dust inside.

The next morning, we spent some time exploring the property. The place was essentially a farm house, with a badminton court, a bonfire area, and a campsite. 

The Balcony

The Campsite

After having our morning cuppa at the beautiful balcony (surrounded by greenery) and clicking a few photos, we headed for brunch at the nearby Clover Greens Golf Course. The golf course is a nearby attraction (only a bit more than a km away) and has an affordably priced restaurant. It is apt for a team outing or even a short excursion with friends.

Decor at Clover Greens

Brunch at Clover Greens

We had an awesome brunch there, and our spread included masala dosa (which was unusually tasty), scrambled eggs, toast, baked beans, and pancakes. 

There was nothing much to do at the golf course, and we left after a quick recce of the property. It appears the golf course compound offers accommodation and also delivers food to the tree house on request. 

Me, Posing Again

Those who wish to visit only touristy places might be disappointed, as there are no tourist spots or typical "places to see" near the tree house. However, if one wishes to spend a quiet weekend, away from the hustle and bustle of Bangalore, amidst the chirps of birds and in a well-equipped, modern tree house, the homestay is THE place to be! At the end of the trip, I could say for sure that I had fulfilled my fantasy of staying in a tree house. 

The First Trip of the New Year: Anthargange

A new year brings with it new hopes and wishes. My only wish this year, however, is to travel and explore as many new places as I can. My new year's day, too, began with a short day trip to a nearby hamlet known as Anthargange, located in Kolar, Karnataka. One of my college friends, her husband, and I spent the day road-tripping to this lesser-known yet pretty place.

The "Kashi of the South"

We began our journey from Bangalore at around 7 in the morning, which meant the roads were mostly empty. Being the 1st of January, however, the roads that day were scattered with revellers from the previous night, driving or walking back home. The streets were still lit and exuded a warm, festive feel.

We drove through the Bangalore-Tirupati highway and stopped at a South Indian joint to have breakfast. A few dosas and sandwiches later, we hopped back into the car and enjoyed the soothing ride to our destination.

The Scenic Route Leading to Kolar

The road was smooth and intermittently flanked by rocky hills. This made for a scenic ride, and we took maximum advantage by clicking photos and filming our ride. 

We reached our destination within 2 hours. It was roughly around 80 km from Bangalore. 

Our first destination was the Sri Kashi Vishweshwara temple, which is also known as the "Kashi of the South." It is perched on a hill that is accessible by stairs. A 5-minute climb, interrupted briefly by the monkey families that stay at the site, took us to the temple. 

The Hike Leading to the Temple

The temple offers good photo-ops (the view from the top) and has a sacred tank in the middle. It is also the base of a pretty scenic trek up the rocky hills, leading to the famous Anthargange caves. We tried to trek up the hill but decided to get back to the temple after covering a bit of it, as we were not in the mood for adventure. We did, however, see a group of enthusiastic youngsters trek up the hill towards the cave.

Sri Kashi Vishweshwara Temple

We decided to click some photos of the pretty landscape around us and then head back. We had heard of the Kolar CCD and its beautiful location, and we decided to drive towards it. The CCD outlet did not disappoint us. It was set against the backdrop of a rocky hill and had seats with a pretty view of the surrounding area. 

The Kolar CCD

After a few more sandwiches and a long session of chit-chat about our respective travel experiences, we headed back to town.

On the way back, we visited the Ramakrishna Matha in Basvangudi. The place is decked with gardens and has a large meditation area. It was a soul-soothing experience.

The Liberty Bell, Ramakrishna Matha, Bangalore

Thus, the first day of the year was a laid-back yet enjoyable day, spent exploring new places in and around Bangalore. Here's hoping that I am able to continue my exploration throughout 2019.

Blissful Bhutan - The Last Shangri-La

Bhutan happened to me out of the blue! Having been vacay-deprived for a long time, I was hungry for a moderately long vacation to some exotic place I had never been before, preferably on the other side of the Indian border. Eventually, I was to make a choice between Sri Lanka and Bhutan. While Sri Lanka is still on my wish-list, Bhutan was worth the time, energy, and money spent. The following is a glimpse of my little rendezvous with "The Last Shangri-La," the little mountain kingdom of Bhutan.

On the Way to Punakha

I joined a group of travellers from Kolkata, my hometown, as it is quite easy to travel from Kolkata to Thimphu (via the border towns of Jaigaon and Phuntsholing). We boarded a train from Kolkata to Hasimara and then took a bus to Jaigaon, the last stop in India before one enters Bhutan by road from Bengal. 

While Jaigaon was quite hot, the weather in Bhutan (a few miles on the other side of the border) was relatively cooler. The dip in the temperature could be felt once we reached Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. 

Day 1: Thimphu, in All Its Grandeur

As one crosses the immigration posts (there are multiple, apart from the major one near the Bhutan Gate at the border), one can experience the visible difference between the two countries. The noise and the pollution ends at the border, and the fresh mountain air of Bhutan, coupled with the spotless roads, amazes one. 

The Thimphu Gate

Our first day in Thimphu was an eventful one. We started with a visit to the local art school, the National Institute for Zorig Chusum. While in countries such as ours, we find students clamouring for engineering and management institutes, in Bhutan, no such rush exists. They seem to live life at their own pace. It was enlightening to see a huge number of Bhutanese youngsters drawing or sculpting at this institute. Travellers can click photos inside the institute, interact with the students, and buy their creations at the institute's curio shop. 

Just a Shop in Thimphu

Our next stop was Bhutan's National Library, which seemed like an architectural marvel. While the library hosts several rare Bhutanese books, one of them stands out amidst the rest. The book in question is supposed to be the Guinness-record-holder for the largest book in the world. It is a montage of Bhutan's culture and heritage, with gorgeous photos of Bhutan's serene landscape. The library premises offer great photo-ops.

The National Library

Our next destination was the Drupthob Thangtong Dewachen Nunnery. This is an ancient nunnery nestled amidst towering mountains and a place where one is sure to find a lot of canine companions, as they are scattered all over the site. 

The Dewachen Nunnery

A short distance away is the Changangkha Lakhang, a sacred place where the Bhutanese bring their newborns to be christened and blessed. 

The next spot, Buddha Dordenma, or the Big Buddha, was one of my favourite places in Bhutan. As one enters this hallowed place, one finds a towering golden statue of Lord Buddha, surrounded by statues of angels, overlooking a lush green mountain. The place offers gorgeous views and is a photographer's delight.

The Angels at the Buddha Dordenma

Our last destination for the day was The Memorial Chorten, one of the many "stupas" of Bhutan. We did not enter the Chorten and sped to the local market instead, as it was already dusk by then.

The Buddha Dordenma

The local markets did not disappoint, though the prices were too steep. We headed to the hotel after buying some souvenirs and enjoying some local delicacies such as Kewa Datshi (a concoction of boiled potatoes, chillies, and cheese, which reminded me of veg stroganoff and other Continental delicacies).

Day 2: Dochula and Punakha

Our second day in Bhutan began with a visit to the beautiful Dochula Pass. With stunning views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks, Dochula is also home to 108 "stupas" built by the Bhutanese queen in memory of the soldiers who lost their lives battling Assamese militants in 2003.

Dochula Pass

This place is straight out of a fairy tale, as one finds towering trees enveloping the entire area. There is a cafe with a gorgeous view of the surrounding mountains and a canine family that loves to play with tourists. 

The Cafe at Dochula Pass

After spending an awesome morning at Dochula, we headed for the legendary Punakha Dzong. This is the second-largest "dzong" (or fortress) in Bhutan. If Dochula was a fairy tale, Punakha certainly was a heavenly deal! The way to Punakha itself offers views of the stunning landscape, with the greenish-blue Mo Chu (Mo river, as "chu" means "river" in Dzongkha) meandering by.

Punakha Dzong

Unfortunately, we had reached at the last moment, with about 20 minutes to spare. The dzong maintains official hours and closes for lunch at 1 pm. We took a quick round of the prayer area (with the statues of Rinpoche and his various avatars) and the gorgeously built administrative buildings.

The dampener of the day was a power cut in our hotel that evening. It was also my birthday, and I was happy that I had spent the entire day away from the humdrum of city life and fake camaraderie.

However, the power cut spoilt my mood. Though the power was back after an hour or so, we had almost frozen to bits without the heater or the geyser for an hour.

Day 3: Paro Chu

The next day began with a visit to the beautiful Paro river. With jaw-dropping views and clear, greenish-blue waters, the river offers stunning backdrops for photos. The white pebbles dotting the banks add to the river's beauty. I had my first ziplining experience at this river, and it was an awesome experience.

At the Paro River

While the Tiger's Nest in Paro is THE most sought-after destination in Bhutan, we did not have it listed in our short, time-bound itinerary. All we could manage was a view from a distance (not fit for a decent photo). We weren't carrying proper hiking gear either and were told the steep hike to the top of the monastery would take around 3 hours, with another 2 hours for the trek back. We were given an option to carry out the trek at our own risk, but none from the group opted for it, as it was not a part of the itinerary. I have vowed to cover the hike someday though! 

We also visited the Drugyel Dzong, the ruins of a centuries-old dzong, with beautiful views of the surrounding valley.

At the Drugyel Dzong

Day 4: Paro Airport, Che Le La Pass, and Haa Valley

Day 4 began with a bird's eye-view of the stunning Paro Airport. Flanked by a river on one side and a mountain range on the other, this airport is considered to be one of the most dangerous airports in the world, with only a handful of pilots equipped with the skills to take off and land here.

A Bird's Eye-View of the Paro Airport

We then headed to the Che Le La Pass, the highest motorable road in Bhutan, situated at a height of 3988 m. The pass offers gorgeous views of the lush green Haa Valley, bordering Tibet and China. One also gets an awesome view of the snow-clad Jomolhari peak from this place.

Che Le La Pass

We made our way through snow-clad roads back to Paro. That evening, we shopped more at the local shops in Paro. While things were relatively cheaper there than in Thimphu, the chilling temperatures did not let us shop for too long. 

The Jomolhari

Day 5: Back to Jaigaon

Our trip ended on the fifth day. It was a misty morning, and we bid goodbye to this awesome country. As we headed back to Jaigaon and then to Hasimara through roads flanked by acres of lush green tea gardens, we were a happy bunch, enriched by the experience of visiting the world's only carbon-negative country.

Fun Facts about Bhutan:

While, my journey to Bhutan was my first step outside India, it was also a journey marked by a number of new experiences. I have shared a few of them below:

• Bhutan is the world's first and only carbon-negative country, which means, they produce more oxygen than carbon dioxide. It is mandatory for the country to have more than 60% of its land to be covered by trees at any given point in time. 
• Remaining true to its carbon-negative status, the country has banned smoking (tobacco of any sort). One cannot throw garbage on the streets or urinate in public without paying a hefty fine. 
• Bhutan has also banned fishing and mountaineering. It is illegal to "conquer" a mountain in Bhutan, as all mountains are considered sacred. 
• The Bhutanese currency is of the same value as the Indian currency. People from India, Maldives, and Bangladesh can travel to Bhutan visa-free. Indians do not even require a passport to visit Bhutan, owing to great trade relations between the two countries.
• Bhutan's markets have an awesome collection of the phallus symbol. I found the markets of Paro full of curio shops selling various forms of the phallus (big, fat, colourful) symbol, which one sales lady told me signifies good luck in Bhutan. 

The Phallus (Curio) Shops in Bhutan

• Bhutan's roads do not have any traffic at all. The main crossing in Thimphu has just one policeman and no traffic lights. There is a heavy fine to be paid if a pedestrian does not use the zebra crossing. 
• Bhutan's streets and buildings are adorned with huge photos and posters of the royal family. The royal family of Bhutan is loved and revered by the local population, although Bhutan is currently a democracy. 

The Royal Family

• Bhutan's buildings, be they shops, administrative buildings, or homes, are beautifully crafted, with unique Bhutanese architecture and paintings adorning most of them. One of the most popular motifs painted on such buildings is that of the legend of the four friends, depicting an elephant, a monkey, a hare, and a bird sitting beneath a tree. The legend depicts the spirit of friendship and coordination. 

The Legend of the Four Friends

• Bhutan's people are mostly dressed in their national attire: the "gho" for men and the "kira" for ladies. The local population also dresses modestly (I was asked to do so, too, and wasn't particularly pleased, before I realized it was Bhutan I was in, and not India). :-)
• Bhutan measures its growth not by GDP (Gross Domestic Product), but by GNH (Gross National Happiness). It is said, they value growth only if it does not harm the environment in any manner. Any business stationed in Bhutan has to certify that it would not harm the environment in any manner. 
• Although Thimphu is the national capital of the country, Paro provides better internet connectivity and is home to Bhutan's only international airport. 

Thus, Bhutan was definitely an apt start to my overseas ventures. I would not really use the term "foreign" to describe my trip, as Bhutan is just a mirror image of India, though much cleaner and much more disciplined.