Crossing the Borders Again: Nepal

Nepal happened out of the blue! I was hungry for another country (after my visit to Bhutan last year), and Nepal just happened to be the easiest option available from my hometown, Kolkata.

In fact, Nepal does not even feel like a different country. No passport or visa is required to visit the country from India. The roads are as polluted, ill-maintained, and filthy (especially the ones leading from Raxaul to Chitwan) as the ones in India. The cities are as congested as their counterparts in India. Even the language is similar to Hindi. It feels like any random North Indian city, especially like the ones where one finds a lot of temples.

A Nepali boy at a souvenir store

I was part of a group (of 10) that left Howrah via Mithila Express one fine afternoon and reached Raxaul (close to the Bihar-Nepal border) the next morning. The journey to Raxaul was not too difficult. What made me cringe were the roads in Raxaul, Birgunj, and everywhere else in Nepal. In fact, I felt we should have carried our own anti-pollution masks, as the roads were badly polluted and made breathing difficult.

Day 1: Journey to Chitwan

We reached Chitwan in the evening and found it surprisingly hot. For a person who is used to the stifling humidity of Kolkata in the summers, I was expecting Chitwan to be a bit cooler. It was not.

Day 2: Chitwan

The next day began with an early morning jeep safari. The hour-long safari was rather enjoyable, although we hardly spotted any animals, apart from the usual crop of birds, deer, wild boars, and monkeys. We visited a lake within the forest for some quick photos.

The safari ended with some interesting sightings, including one involving a rhino in the middle of a waterhole and another involving some alligators.

The forests of Chitwan

After a sumptuous lunch at our hotel (which also unfortunately had some of the most ill-mannered and abusive staff I have ever seen in my life), we left for our next destination: Pokhara. We reached Pokhara that evening and were thankful because the weather had turned cooler. The roads to Pokhara too were a welcome change, with the paths flanked by greenery.

Day 3: Pokhara

Our day in Pokhara began with a visit to the Bindhyabasini Temple. Perched on a hill, the temple offered great views of the surrounding landscape and the Annapurna range. We spotted a newlywed Nepali couple, who were, fortunately, happy to be clicked.

Our next destination was the Mahendra Cave, which was reminiscent of the caves of Meghalaya, with the exception of the religious quotient attached to it. The limestone cave is easy to explore and has a Shiva statue deep inside (with a priest eager to apply "tikas" on your forehead).

We then visited the Devi's falls- an underground waterfall. The famed Bat Cave was a disappointment, with most of us going halfway through and getting back, as climbing down the moss-covered steps to the cave (and back) to spot some bats did not seem worth the effort.

The milky white Seti Gandaki river

What left us in awe was the milky white Seti Gandaki river (which is supposed to be a holy river of Nepal). The waters (and all of it, right from its very source, or whatever was visible) appeared to be white (probably due to a peculiar concoction of minerals, or, as the locals claim, due to it being holy).

As the day progressed, the temperatures soared. It was difficult to move around in the sun and we proceeded towards our hotel for lunch, leaving the famed Phewa Lake for a late afternoon visit.

The soul-soothing Phewa Lake

The rain gods seemed quite angry with us, as soon after lunch, it started pouring. The thunderstorm that followed (for about half an hour or so) could have given our local Bengali "kalbaishakhi" quite a competition. Though we loved watching the rains from our hotel balcony, the thought that we would probably have to give Phewa Lake a miss was rather dampening.

However, just as the rains turned to a drizzle, we rushed to Phewa Lake, as nobody was in the mood to lose the opportunity to experience the "Dal Lake vibes" of Phewa Lake. The awe-inspiring view at the lake, coupled with the sunset and the light drizzle, was heavenly!

Thus, Pokhara was made all the more lovely by the rains!

Day 4: Manakamana

We left Pokhara early next morning. Our destination was Kathmandu- the capital of Nepal. However, we visited the Manakamana Temple on the way. The temple, which houses Goddess Bhagwati, is located high up in the mountains and is accessible by cable cars, which were a bit costly at the first glance, at 500 INC per person. However, after experiencing the breathtaking views of the green-bathed mountains and the Trishuli river below, from the cable car (on the ride to the temple and back), I felt it was totally worth it!

The cable car ride to Manakamana

The temple itself was a few steps away from the cable car drop-off point. The temple complex was chaotic, filthy, and ill-managed, to say the least. We witnessed a long queue for the puja, with people lining up accompanied by goats and roosters (which unfortunately were supposed to be sacrificed to the goddess, in exchange of the fulfillment of their wishes, or "manakamana"). None of us joined the queue, as the heat and the chaos made us all a bit nauseous. With me being the least religious of all, we sprinted back to the cable car pick-up point as quickly as possible.

The ride back was a treat and a welcome relief from the heat. We had a quick lunch while relishing the view of the gurgling Trishuli river and rafts carrying adventure-loving tourists.

After lunch, we headed towards Kathmandu- the abode of Lord Pashupatinath.

Day 5: Kathmandu- Pashupatinath and Durbar Square (Bhaktapur)

Pashupatinath

Kathmandu and Pashupatinath are synonymous in many ways . It is said that a journey to Nepal is incomplete without a visit to the temple of Lord Pashupatinath. Surprisingly, while the goddess at Manakamana grants wishes when one sacrifices an animal or a bird at the temple, Lord Pashupatinath (or the Lord of the animals) does not seem to encourage animal sacrifice of any kind. In fact, it is considered a sin to carry leather bags, cameras, and leather belts inside the main temple complex. The main temple is a treat for the senses. Much cleaner than the Manakamana temple, the Pashupatinath temple was also relatively empty. The pagoda-shaped temple has a huge statue of a bull right in front of it. I got a glimpse of the deity without much difficulty. Unfortunately, I could not capture the beautiful temple in my clicks, as cameras (even mobile phone cameras) are banned inside.

Bhaktapur

The rather peaceful visit to Pashupatinath was followed by a quick lunch and a visit to the Durbar Square (Bhaktapur) in the evening. Bhaktapur is one of the three major royal palace compounds of Nepal and was badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake. However, the resilience of the Nepali people and the funds, predominantly from India, China, Korea, and Japan, made sure many of the buildings in the complex were rebuilt. In fact, much of the complex is still under construction.

A great place for clicking photos and spending a laid-back evening, gossiping over coffee, Durbar Square is also the right place for some serious souvenir-shopping. While the sprawling compound of the temple-facing restaurant (full of youngsters) reminded me of the legendary "quadrangle" of my alma, Presidency, our gentle guide, Mr. Ajit Thapa, turned out to be an encyclopedia of sorts. He guided us through the main compound, the wooden palace (where cameras and leather goods are banned), and several other temples and buildings at the square.

Shops of Nepal

That evening, it was a treat to find the only visible Bengali shop of Kathmandu, "Komol dar dokan". Spoke to his son and learned they had migrated to Nepal from Jalpaiguri (for some unknown reason), years back.

Day 6: Kathmandu- Swayambhunath and Boudhanath

The streets of Kathmandu welcomed us with souvenirs of all kinds. From beautifully carved Pashupatinath miniatures (at just 200 bucks) to magnets, everything seemed affordable near the temple.

The souvenirs became a little costlier near Boudhanath. One of the most prominent Buddhist stupas of Nepal, Boudhanath was also reconstructed after the deadly 2015 earthquake. The main stupa, adorned with the traditional Buddha eyes, is a treat. The markets around the stupa were bustling with activity.

Boudhanath

The next prominent stupa was the one at Swayambhunath. The 10-minute climb up the stairs to the stupa ends with a bird's eye-view of Kathmandu from the top. Again, we found many temples being reconstructed at the main site.

Swayambhunath

Our day ended with a visit to the reclining Vishnu at Bura Nilkanth. The funny bit was while cameras are banned inside, one can easily click photos of the main deity from an uncovered (and unfenced) area just outside the main compound.

Day 7: Ride to Raxaul

Our trip to Nepal ended with this, and we took a long bus ride back to Raxaul from Kathmandu (spanning a day). The heat while returning to Raxaul got on our nerves. We almost reached Raxaul for the night halt when we learned that due to elections, the border was sealed for buses, while tongas were being allowed. Thus, a 10-minute bumpy tonga ride through the Nepal gate took us to our hotel in Raxaul. We left for Kolkata the following day, but richer with experiences and memories of our short but eventful trip to this beautiful country.

The Raxaul railway station, designed like a pagoda

Fun Facts about Nepal:

1) Nepal is one of the few countries that make Indians feel rich, as 1 Indian Rupee = 1.6 Nepali Rupee

2) Found a lot of language training institutes when our bus crossed Thamel. While the streets were teeming with invitations to study Korean, Chinese, and Japanese and migrate to the respective countries, there wasn't a single ad that spoke about migrating to India (though Nepal's workforce is heavily dependent on India).

Don't Worry, Be Hampi

Hampi was on my wish-list since a long time, long before it managed to grab the 2nd spot on 'The New York Times Must-See Global Destinations of 2019' list. However, I will not deny the fact that the 'NY Times' declaration definitely reminded me that I should check this destination off my list before it gets swarmed by tourists. Thus, one of my friends and I decided to visit this historical marvel over a weekend.

Hampi is a quaint little village on the banks of the Tungabhadra and consists of the ruins of the once-glorious Vijayanagara empire. While we were excited to explore this ancient jewel of India, we were equally excited to include the Hippie Island on our list of to-dos in Hampi. Situated on the other side of the Tungabhadra, lies the Hippie Island, or the Virupapur Gadde, which is the sin city of Hampi, replete with Israeli hippies, quirky decor, and an elemental ambience.

Just a random view of Hampi

Our journey began from Bangalore. We boarded an AC bus to Hospet (since there aren't any direct buses to Hampi) and reached at 6, the next morning.

We checked into a homestay in New Hampi and were pleasantly surprised by the swanky interiors (though decked in tacky colours).

Day 1: Coracle Ride and the Hippie Island

Our first day in Hampi began with a Continental breakfast at the Hampi Paradise Restaurant. Decked with bohemian decor (such as an authentic painting of Kali), this place was no less than an outdoor breakfast place in Bangalore.

Next, we saw the Sister Stones, and the driver explained how folklore claims that two sisters who were cursed by a saint had turned into stones at that point. We were keen on travelling to the other side of the Tungabhadra (to the Hippie Island) via a coracle, but our auto driver/guide gave us another option: A leisurely, customized coracle ride on Sanapur Lake, followed by a road trip to the Hippie Island.

Me, rowing the coracle

The coracle ride was my first, and I must say, I loved it thoroughly. My friend and I even rowed the coracle for a while, and it was quite a thrilling moment for both of us. Following the coracle ride, we treated ourselves to some refreshing coconut water and headed to the Hippie Island.

A painting of Dali at the Hippie Island

The Hippie Island lived up to its reputation. Replete with restaurants serving Israeli food, foreigners in hippie attire and quirky hairdos, eye-catching graffiti, and thatched-roofed houses, the Hippie Island is a treat to the bohemian soul.

Decor at the Hippie Island

My friend and I got colourful braids done at the island (another first for me) and explored the eateries there. We spent some time soaking in the gypsy ambience at Gouthami and savoured some choco-banana cake at the German Bakery (not so extraordinary).

Me, with braids

Our day ended with a quick visit to the Hanuman Temple located nearby, after which we had an early dinner at the renowned Mango Tree, located in the Hampi Bazaar area.

While Mango Tree offered a soothing ambience, the "bazaar" didn't have too many options to explore. The area basically consists of a few curio/handicraft shops and a few eateries.

Mango Tree

After a hectic day at the Hippie Island, we took an auto ride to our homestay. However, the village was then totally submerged in darkness. Our 15-minute ride to our homestay spooked us a bit, as the roads were dark and empty, flanked by trees and the ruins that seemed a wee bit haunted. Fortunately for us, we reached our homestay soon. We were eager to catch the sunrise the next morning.

Day 2: Matanga Hill and the Ruins of Hampi

Our second day in Hampi was quite an eventful one. The day began at 5:30 am, with us rushing to the base of the Matanga Hill. Unfortunately, I had underestimated the climb and was overdressed (in a skirt and a blouse, with a fancy dupatta) for it. After the initial few stretches, I got a panic attack, as the rest of the climb seemed difficult (especially if one is dressed in a skirt). At one point, I decided to give up. We were there to watch the sunrise, so yes, the trek in the dark was difficult, at least for me. However, our guide was determined to show me the sunrise and helped me climb up to a place where I could sit and watch the sunrise, while most of the others who were there climbed up to the highest point (beside the Matanga temple). My friend was able to climb up to the top, while I sat at a lower point, listening to bumble bees buzzing right next to me.

Sunrise at the Matanga Hill

The sunrise, however, was worth the climb. The early morning chills, accompanied by the chirps of birds and the stunning view of the Tungabhadra on one side and the Achutaraya Temple on the other, was a delight.

Shortly after the sunrise, my friend was back from the hilltop, but she wasn't alone. Apparently, she had befriended a solo traveller from Delhi, and he tagged along with us. So now, we were a group of three. Our guide helped us climb down through another route (an easier one, with steps) that took us through the Achutaraya Temple at the base of the Matanga Hill. We explored the temple ruins and the monolithic bull (Nandi) nearby.

The rest of the day was spent exploring some of the awe-inspiring temple ruins of Hampi. We visited the Krishna Temple, the markets of the Vijayanagara era (which reminded me of similar structures at the Lepakshi temple), the Badavi Linga (a partially submerged shivlinga), the Narasimha temple, and the Ganesha temple.

The ancient markets of Hampi

The scorching sun was getting the better of us. Thus, we armed ourselves with caps and a lot of water and juices to help us sail through the day.

Plates meant for the soldiers of that era

After a break, we made way to the Hazara Rama Temple (with beautifully sculpted pillars depicting scenes from the Ramayana). We then headed to the Lotus Mahal (reminiscent of the ancient monuments of Delhi), the awe-inspiring Elephant Stables, and the Queen's Bath. Our guide also took us to a place that had food plates etched in stone, which he claimed were meant for soldiers of that era.

Mahanavami Dibba

We then explored the Mahanavami Dibba, a giant raised platform with a scenic view of the surrounding landscape. One of the highlights of the day was the giant step-well or Pushkarni (which reminded me of the great Adalaj step-well of Gujarat). A few selfies later, we decided (against our overtly enthusiastic guide) to keep our temple exploration pending and head for lunch instead.

Pushkarni

We had a sumptuous lunch, consisting of a concoction of Israeli, Italian, and Continental food, at Funky Monkey in the Hampi Bazaar area. We chatted with another solo traveller there. He was planning to camp at Matanga Hill but was a little apprehensive about it, as a few of his friends had told him the hill was haunted. He also spoke of his interest in bouldering and told us he had plans of exploring Matanga Hill with a Chinese tourist he had met the previous day.

After lunch, we spent some time curio-shopping at Hampi Bazaar. After spending 10 minutes haggling with the vendor, we managed to salvage a few miniature stone chariots at a throwaway price. Our solo traveller friend had to depart, as he had a bus to catch in the evening and had to cover Hippie Island before that.

Next, our dedicated auto driver drove us to the cynosure of the entire region of Hampi: the Vijaya Vittala Temple and the Stone Chariot. As we headed for the ticket counter, we were almost mobbed by a huge group of schoolchildren who had arrived just then and were queuing up just ahead of us. We thought we wouldn't be able to cover the temple, as we had an hour before its scheduled closing time and the queue in front of us was a serpentine, never-ending one. After the initial shock, we realized the children had queued up but would not get in the battery-operated cars, for which we had queued up. They would walk instead. This meant, they were let in through a separate gate and the queue in front of us shortened significantly.

The Stone Chariot

We thanked our stars as we got in the battery-operated car. A 2-minute ride took us to the main temple complex. As we entered the beautiful Vittala temple complex, we realized it was no ordinary temple. By far the most beautiful of all the temples we visited in Hampi, this was an architectural marvel, which makes one question: If the ruins are this breathtaking, how beautiful were these temples back in the time of the mighty Vijayanagara empire, before being burned down and ravaged by the Delhi Sultanate?

The Stone Chariot was definitely the highlight of the entire complex, with people clicking the chariot from a distance, with the 50-Rupee note (bearing an image of the chariot) beside it - a frame that has now become a cliche of sorts.

The Musical Pillars

A few steps ahead lay the mighty Musical Pillars. The main feature of these pillars is that they emanate different sounds of the "sargam"when tapped. Unfortunately, a major portion of this structure is now closed down for maintenance and is thus out of reach of tourists. We were highly disappointed but managed to explore the entire complex and strike some pretty poses inside.

After an hour of clicking photos and exploring the temple, we headed back to the main entrance, queuing up for the battery-operated car again.

The sunset at Hemakuta Hills

Our next spot was the Hemakuta Temple and the sunset point adjacent to it. The monkey families spotted at the main entrance added to the appeal of this place. We did a quick recce of the temple and were rushing to the sunset point when our guide took us to an isolated corner of the temple and amazed us by tapping on a few pillars. What we heard was music. It sounded like the tabla and was soothing to the ears. Our disappointment at not being able to get into the actual structure with the bigger musical pillars at the Vittala Temple was now somewhat gone.

We rushed to the sunset point and realized we had reached at the 11th hour. We caught a glimpse of the setting sun and loved every bit of it.

Our last spot was the Virupaksha Temple. We were thrilled to spot the temple elephant, Lakshmi, who was seen blessing the devotees with her trunk and eating the bananas and other fruits offered to her. Thankfully, she was not in chains.

Lakshmi, the temple elephant, at Virupaksha Temple

Our journey to Hampi was now over and we left the little village that night with somewhat heavy hearts but also with a lot of experiences and memories that would remain with us forever. The journey gave us new friends and gave me a new set of firsts: my first experience of trekking up a hill in a skirt (that too, in utter darkness, just before the sunrise), my first experience of getting coloured hippie braids, and my first coracle ride.

To conclude, I would like to use a phrase used by the solo traveller we met in Hampi, who later turned into a good friend: "Don't Worry, Be Hampi!"

Weekend Trip: Tree House Homestay and Clover Greens Golf Club

I have two major hobbies: travelling and writing about travel. However, of late, I have started enjoying reading about travel, too. A casual search on road trips around Bangalore led me to an LBB post featuring a write-up on a beautiful tree house homestay just off Sarjapur and about a 45-minute drive away from Bangalore, on the outskirts bordering Tamil Nadu. A little more research revealed that the house is actually the property of a local architect who rents it out on Airbnb.

The Tree House Homestay

The link that the site provided, however, showed that the tree house remains booked almost throughout the month. Thus, booking in advance is recommended. 

A travel-loving friend and I decided to explore the tree house and the surrounding area over a weekend. We decided to head for the place on a Friday evening and reached the place at around 10 pm. Although the tree house remains well-lit at night and is inside a gated farm, the road leading to the place was isolated and a bit creepy at night. There is a 2 km stretch that is completely dark and can be scary at night.

The Beautiful Balcony

Me, Posing

However, once we reached the place (which is located next to a village), the friendly caretaker guided us to the tree house. Not much of the property could be explored at night, but we noticed that the place was decked with fairy lights and looked lovely.

The Sofa Bed

Cute Decor

Once inside, we were floored by the strategic use of space inside the tree house. The amenities that we got as part of the package included:

• An AC tree house with a balcony
• A TV attached to a convertible bed
• A well-stocked kitchen, with a microwave oven, an induction cooker, a fridge, utensils, crockery, and cutlery
• A sofa-bed 
• An attached bathroom with a glass (not opaque, not even semi-opaque) door, a cute little bath area, a geyser, and a hair-dryer.
• An emergency light (just in case, the power fails)
• A heater 
• A whole lot of cupboards and storage areas, two wooden chairs, and a coffee table

The TV and Convertible Bed

The Convertible Bed

Glass Doors

The aforementioned list is not meant to be an advertisement for the place but a sheer expression of awe at how well-utilised the space was. The house also had cute decor, and there was not a speck of dust inside.

The next morning, we spent some time exploring the property. The place was essentially a farm house, with a badminton court, a bonfire area, and a campsite. 

The Balcony

The Campsite

After having our morning cuppa at the beautiful balcony (surrounded by greenery) and clicking a few photos, we headed for brunch at the nearby Clover Greens Golf Course. The golf course is a nearby attraction (only a bit more than a km away) and has an affordably priced restaurant. It is apt for a team outing or even a short excursion with friends.

Decor at Clover Greens

Brunch at Clover Greens

We had an awesome brunch there, and our spread included masala dosa (which was unusually tasty), scrambled eggs, toast, baked beans, and pancakes. 

There was nothing much to do at the golf course, and we left after a quick recce of the property. It appears the golf course compound offers accommodation and also delivers food to the tree house on request. 

Me, Posing Again

Those who wish to visit only touristy places might be disappointed, as there are no tourist spots or typical "places to see" near the tree house. However, if one wishes to spend a quiet weekend, away from the hustle and bustle of Bangalore, amidst the chirps of birds and in a well-equipped, modern tree house, the homestay is THE place to be! At the end of the trip, I could say for sure that I had fulfilled my fantasy of staying in a tree house. 

The First Trip of the New Year: Anthargange

A new year brings with it new hopes and wishes. My only wish this year, however, is to travel and explore as many new places as I can. My new year's day, too, began with a short day trip to a nearby hamlet known as Anthargange, located in Kolar, Karnataka. One of my college friends, her husband, and I spent the day road-tripping to this lesser-known yet pretty place.

The "Kashi of the South"

We began our journey from Bangalore at around 7 in the morning, which meant the roads were mostly empty. Being the 1st of January, however, the roads that day were scattered with revellers from the previous night, driving or walking back home. The streets were still lit and exuded a warm, festive feel.

We drove through the Bangalore-Tirupati highway and stopped at a South Indian joint to have breakfast. A few dosas and sandwiches later, we hopped back into the car and enjoyed the soothing ride to our destination.

The Scenic Route Leading to Kolar

The road was smooth and intermittently flanked by rocky hills. This made for a scenic ride, and we took maximum advantage by clicking photos and filming our ride. 

We reached our destination within 2 hours. It was roughly around 80 km from Bangalore. 

Our first destination was the Sri Kashi Vishweshwara temple, which is also known as the "Kashi of the South." It is perched on a hill that is accessible by stairs. A 5-minute climb, interrupted briefly by the monkey families that stay at the site, took us to the temple. 

The Hike Leading to the Temple

The temple offers good photo-ops (the view from the top) and has a sacred tank in the middle. It is also the base of a pretty scenic trek up the rocky hills, leading to the famous Anthargange caves. We tried to trek up the hill but decided to get back to the temple after covering a bit of it, as we were not in the mood for adventure. We did, however, see a group of enthusiastic youngsters trek up the hill towards the cave.

Sri Kashi Vishweshwara Temple

We decided to click some photos of the pretty landscape around us and then head back. We had heard of the Kolar CCD and its beautiful location, and we decided to drive towards it. The CCD outlet did not disappoint us. It was set against the backdrop of a rocky hill and had seats with a pretty view of the surrounding area. 

The Kolar CCD

After a few more sandwiches and a long session of chit-chat about our respective travel experiences, we headed back to town.

On the way back, we visited the Ramakrishna Matha in Basvangudi. The place is decked with gardens and has a large meditation area. It was a soul-soothing experience.

The Liberty Bell, Ramakrishna Matha, Bangalore

Thus, the first day of the year was a laid-back yet enjoyable day, spent exploring new places in and around Bangalore. Here's hoping that I am able to continue my exploration throughout 2019.